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Brasierre
New York Socialite Mary Phelps Jacobs Patents the Brassiere
Mary Harycki
In Ms. Jacobs’ day women were accustomed only to that
stiff, whaleboned obstacle to female movement: the corset.
A corset locked a woman’s chest and bosom.
The whalebones hurt like hell.
So Ms. Jacobs designed a new undergarment,
called the brassiere.
Although bras have existed in one form or another since ancient times,
credit for the invention of the modern brassiere was erroneously given
to the suggestively named Otto Titzling, a German immigrant.
In 1910, while working for his uncle, a women’s garment manufacturer,
Titzling invented a chest halter for an opera singer,
Swanhilda Olafsen, hearing her complain
of the discomfort and pain and lack of support that corsets gave to her ponderous breasts,
but Titzling neglected to patent his invention,
so never received credit for its innovation.
Most fashion historians have selected Mary Phelps Jacobs,
a.k.a. Caresse Crosby, as the first
American inventor and populizer of the brassiere.
(A word, incidentally, that first appeared in 1911 and may or may not
have been derived from Paris dress designer Philippe de Brassiere,
who is also said to have invented the brassiere.)
But was it Philippe or Mary Jacobs who finally invented the bra?
In 1913 Ms. Jacobs purchased an expensive sheer evening gown that clearly revealed her corset.
This was definitely unacceptable and with the help of her maid,
she devised a brief, backless bra from two white handerchiefs, a strand of ribbon, and cord.
Female friends who admired Jacob’s lightweight, impromptu fashion received them as gifts.
But when Jacobs received a letter from a stranger,
containing a dollar and a request for her design,
she decided she had better try and patent her invention.
She did!
In 1914 the U.S. Patent Office awarded Jacobs a patent for the Backless Bassiere.
Ms. Jacobs then went on to produce hundreds of handmade bras with the help of her friends.
Later, Ms. Jacobs sold her patent rights to Warner Brothers of Bridgeport, CT,
for either $1500 or $15,000, beginning what would become a profitable industry.
Innovations that followed Mary Phelps Jacobs’ design:
the padded bra of the 1920's,
standard cup sizes, which were introduced in the 1930's
by immigrant Ida Rosenthal,
the founder, with her husband, of the Maidenform Company.
Rosenthal designed a line of uplift bras
like those shown in the Victoria’s Secret catalogue and stores of today.
Nothing can match the Maidenform ads of the 50' and the 60's.
Remember?
In them a beautiful woman would appear,
clothed in
a Maidenform bra on top
and for a variety of activities on the bottom.
The caption:
“I dreamed I
(went horseback riding,
fox-trottted,
danced a ballet,
got married,
tried ecstasy,
got divorced,
fell in love with a Vietnam veteran,
performed oral sex on the President,
visited lepers in Malasia, etc.)
in my Maidenform bra.”
In 2001 there are bras of every shape and size:
from the “no-bra bra” to the WonderBra,
to the stretch-lace cami with corset seaming,
to the stretch loungewear separates that sculpt and drape the body in ultra-sleek microfiber,
to the Click Mircle Bra, the only bra that adjusts to let you create three levels of cleavage,
to the emproidered balconette bra with a lower delcolletage and the subtle fit of the exclusive demi pad,
to the strapless bra with lightly padded cups,
to the Dream Angels Desire in beautiful stretch floral lace with scallopped edging and V charm,
which will provide cleavage to any woman who wants it:
The message is that bigger bosoms are better;
most women have fallen for bulging tits.
Of course Ms. Jacobs was not thinking along those lines when she registered her patent.
Or was she?
Frn: brassiere
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